This is Worse Than a Ghost Story.....

Today was simply amazing. I got to experience something that Kathryn and I had read about in books. I literally walked among the dead. Spooky right, well experiencing it first hand was even spookier. I arrived at the Catacombs later than I had hoped but still had plenty of time to make sure I saw everything on my to-do list today. The line was actually not that long and so I added my body to the line of other tourists waiting for a glimpse of the unnamed dead. Fast forward two hours and there I was in line, still waiting. The sun was shining, as evident from my now rudolph red nose, and the two Australian girls behind me couldn't stop talking about getting pie from a pub near by. I was more than ready when it was finally my turn to go inside, only to be meet with a sign reading "This tour can have a profound impact on childen of a young age and those with a nervous disposition" oh no, was my nervous twitch going to show up, maybe this wasnt such a good idea. Knowing Kathryn would kill me if I came home without having seen this, I decended the 130 stairs. What meet me was a completly different world. As a group we made our way along tunnels of old gypsum mines, it was cold, and dark, and very damp.

The tunnels were narrow and even I could touch the top if I stood on my tip toes, and they seemed to go on forever. Eventually I left part of the group behind and the other part seemed to pick up the speed so that I was left by myself, with only the sound of my shoes and the dripping of random water as my company. I wanted my Mom. It was dark, and cold, and I was scared that some skeleton was going to come around that corner up there and get me. I pressed on,hoping that I would eventually catch up to someone else. Then I came around another corner and was meet by a sight that would creep even the bravest of souls out.

Bones, and lots of them. Thousands upon thousands of bones. Some of them stacked in uniform,like in the picture, but others just thrown on top of the piles. I overhead a guide saying that some 6 million bodies where moved from cemetaries around Paris to here, when it got a bit overcrowded. The tunnels snaked on and on, never once leaving the bones behind. I tried hard not to concentrate on the fact that we were deep below the ground and that these in fact had once been real, alive people. It was really creepy. But worth the visit. I kept thinking that if they tried to do something like this nowadays, there would be an outcry, riots, destruction, but back then they really had no other choice. Strange how fast the world changes. After emerging back into the blinding sunlight I ambled my way down Boulvard Raspail, which I think has become my favorite street in Paris. It was quiet and there were lots of small cafe's to rest at. I even walked past a couple of real estate offices with pictures in the windows, I spent a lovley couple of minutes at each picking out which one I wanted to buy. * I have to pause here a moment; as I am writing,this sitting out on my balcony,the apartments around me are light up from inside,a soft glow surrounds me, a couple of boys stuck their heads out of an adjacent window and called out to me :c'est bon? meaning it's good, I replied "Wee c'est bon!! yes it's good! ahhhh Paris!!* I eventually made it to the Army museum and the resting place of Napoleon. It was quiet a sight to see this "little" guy (turns out he wasnt so little, he was an average 5'7) entombed in such a huge fashion.

After leaving the tomb,I went to an exibit on WW1 and WW2. It was interesting to view if from the French's point of veiw and to see what they went through during that hard time. After having lunch at the museum. I caught the Metro up to Champ Elsees. On the train,a man sat down next to me and after noticing my guide book he asked if I was a tourist. We got to talking and he asked ifI loved Paris, and I said that I did, and then I asked him the same question. He told me,that because he was born here and lived here he dosent have the same prespective but he loves it when he hears tourists say that they love his city, since there is so much to love about it. Earlier in the week too, I had asked someone if they ever got tired of looking at the Eiffel Tower everyday. They said that they still look at the tower but they no longer "See" it. I guess when you have to look at something everyday, you lose sight of the beauty and of the "big" picture. Oh and he asked for my number too, I swear I am moving to Paris just because I know I could have a date every other night, I just simply have to look like I have no idea where I am going. I exited the metro station and stood in aww of the Arc De Triumph. It was magnificant, and surrounded on all sides by traffic.

I made the obligitory trek underground (to surpass all that traffic) and up the 290 stairs to the top of the Arc. The whole of Paris laid at my feet. From this high up, you can see for miles, but your still close enough to be able to identify specific landmarks.

She is simply stunning isnt she! After staring at all this beauty for so long I swear itsgoing to be so hard to go back to humdrum NY again (don't worry Jason and Laura it was a round trip ticket that I booked). I exited the Arc and took a stroll down the Champ-Elysees. This is the most famous of all the Avenues in Paris. The shops are high class and expensive. Parisians of old used to walk this street to be seen. They would get all dressed up and bring their fancy car, just so they could walk down the Avenue.





I even found a store some of you might recognize!

After a long and leisurly stroll down this street I entered Place De la Concord. The resting home of the Obelisk.

It has tons of hyrogliphis engraved into it's sides. My guidebook told me that they tell the story of the Obelisks journey from Egypt to it's home here in Paris. This was another thing that Kathryn and I had read about so I was excited to beable to take some pictures so that she could see it too. It was getting late at this point and I was feeling tired, but had one more stop on my to-do list for the day. The Louve Museum. Now, I am not a big Art Fan. I appreciate painting and sculptures but an art museum is not on the top of my must see sights. But I knew I had to go here, if only to see the Mona Lisa. Once I did see her, after getting lost in the maze of rooms that is the Louve, I was dissapointed. The painting itself is not that big, and through the throng of tourists trying to get themselves and her in a picture you can barley see her. Not only that but she is kept behind a 6 inch plate of glass and is roped off, no one is allowed with in 6 feet of the painting. Makes it hard to make out any of the details.

After spending another hour just wandering around the museum, seeing what else there was to see, I was ready to head back to the apartment. I hit up the metro and make my way (quickly) back to my apartment. On the way back into the building, I bumped into the man that had helped me with my door problem on Sunday. He asked if I had, had any other problems and make sure that I understood I was supposed to listen to the door (whatever that means). The Parisian people have all been very nice to me, and I don't see any evidence in the fact that they don't like American's. I find it comforting to walk into my apartment now, pour a glass of wine, open my balcony door and sit and think back over all the wonderful things I did and saw today. Ahhhh.... C'est la vie!!!

*By the way any of you readers who tried to post earlier and were not able to I fixed the problem so comment away!

What a Beautiful Morning

This morning I woke up with a smile on my face and contentment in my heart. I hopped out of bed, humming a little tune and a pep in my step, eager to see more of this glorious city. Today I am off to see a bunch of things. Up first the Catacombs, which I know Kathryn is very eager for me to see!, then the Army Museum and Napoleon's tomb, followed by the Rodin Museum. After which I plan to head over to the Arc De triumph and a stroll down the Champ-Elysees. Ending the day with a stroll around the Obelisk in Place de la concord and after which I have an evening date at the Louve, with Mona Lisa.

It's a Beautiful life

Today I was off to see the heart of Paris. To wonder at her marvels and view the Paris of past. So I set off with my Rick Steves' Paris gudebook in hand and my horrid sense of direction in toe and away I went. First stop Notre Dame. Emerging from the Metro stop the Cathedral is stunning. I read Victor Hugo's The Hunchback of Notre Dame over the summer in preparation for my visit, but nothing could have prepared me for the real thing. The Cathedral is simply amazing to look at and what makes it even more amazing is the fact that the workers started this project knowing they would never see it finished. It took 2 centuries to complete, started in 1163 and finished in 1345 when the first mass took place.

A few yards in front of the main door is a small bronze cirlce that signifies the historic heart of Paris; Point Zero. This is the point from which all distances from Paris are measured.



Thats my sandaled foot standing on Point Zero
I am officially in the Heart of Paris!



Okay so prepare yourself, I am about to do a little plug. My Rick Steves' guidebook to Paris not only comes with ton's of information, as well as several walks and tours (for museums and such) around the city, but it also came with an audio tour of some of the most popular destinations. I used the one today for the Historical Paris walk and it was simply wonderful.I could pause when ever I needed to, and it added insight into the different places I was seeing. Not only that, but after being surrounded by people speaking French for the past three days it was wonderful to hear English.

Here I am with my headphones on in front of Notre Dame
Yes I am aware I look like a tourist but I don't paricularly
care at that point in time.

 Outside was frought with tourists, and I even had to use my Angry eyes on some of those that wanted to jump the line to enter the Cathedral. It was a long line but moved fast. I only waited about 15 minutes and once inside I spent a good haft hour wandering around in aww of the sheer magnitude of this incredible building. The Parisian's of old loved them some stained glass windows and Notre dame had plenty of them. The rose windows were especially beautiful.

The place is massive. I felt so small standing inside of it (*insert Short joke here). After Exiting Notre Dame I went on to explore the side and back view of it. The Facade is what gets the most attention as it is the most regonizable however, the side and back deserve just as much attention since they are equally, if not more so, impressive.

After wondering around for another 30 minutes or so I meandered over to the Ill' St. Louis an island just accoss the Seine from Notre Dame. It was a quite island, that very much had that small village French feel, which is surprising since there are about 500 tourist 600 feet away. After walking around the island for a little while I took a walk along the left bank of the Seine river. Here I found a place I have read about and longed to go to for a long time...

This bookstore was a hang out for all sorts of author's during the 20's, they flocked to this regin of Paris for the cheap rent and even cheaper wine. Even today struggling authors can room for cheap above the bookstore. Buying a book from here, is given an extra special treat. A shakespeare and company stamp on the front page (the true reason I went there!). Exiting the bookstore I continued on into the Latin Quater filled with strangely enough, alot of greek bistros. It was charming however to walk down the pedestrian only alleyways and meander into and out of different bookstores. After leaving the Latin Quarter I made my way slowly to Sainte-Chapelle. A gothic church I had read about and had been planning on coming to later in the week for one of their evening concerts. I wanted to see it in the daylight though. I stoped for lunch near by the church and as I sat eating my "hot dog" (I love the Parisian version of this, they stuff 2 hot dogs in a huge baggett and then cover the entire thing with cheese, it's wonderful!) I noticed on the other side of the street a man having an argument... with a building, I thought to myself "it's nice to know they have crazy people no matter where you go". After lunch I made my way to the church. After waiting in a short line to go throught security (at least they didn't make me take off my shoes) I entered the church. The ground floor was mysterious. Quiet and dark, they demanded no talking and even the ticket counter was talking in hushed tones. After proceeding up a narrow sprial staircase, the whole time of which I was praying that I didnt fall backwards and knock the poor lady behind me down, I was greeted with a sight that stole my breath.

This place has 15 columns of stained glass windows, that are just remarkable. They tell the story of the bible, starting from creation and ending with the end of the world. After standing for a moment in the sunlight streaming through the windows I took a seat, the better to admire the beauty. In that moment I really wished I could call up Alice Steinbach and tell her " I did it Alice, I went and stood in the light at St.Chapelle". I have a soft spot in my heart for gothic churches, or buildings of anykind for that matter, I feel that they not only serve a purpose, but the building itself praises God and is a testiment to the belief of it's people. After leaving St. Chapelle I continued just down the street to the Conciergerie, which many of you may know was the final stop for Marie-Antoinette before she famously lost her head. I walked the same dark passageway she did, I saw where she slept before that final day. It was very humbling, her crime was that she didn't care about her people enough, makes you want to take better care of the people around you. After the Conciergerie I headed over to Place Dauphine and then to see the statue of Henry IV. I explored around the Left Bank somemore. Including taking a walk along the Pont des Arts a pedestrian only bridge across the Seine river.

I also went in search of Le deux Magots, a famous haunt of Hemmingways while he was here in Paris. Once I found it, I was a tad dissapointed, it was very touristy, but I was still excited that I was enjoying a cafe creme at the same place he did. All in all it was a wonderful day! I seem to be having alot of those since I got here. I can honestly say that I fall more and more under this city's spell with each passing moment. I am so glad I decided to do this and can't wait to see what else this city has in store for me!

A panoramic view of the Left bank, Pont des Arts, and the Right bank. This city is so beautiful!

*Crepe count so far: 4
** Wine count so far: 1 Bottle 4 glasses
***For those of you who don't know who Alice Steinbach is, she is a wonderful travel writer who wrote two books Without Reservations, and Educating Alice. I can honestly say that reading her books is the reason that I knew I could travel solo. And because of that she changed my life forever. Thanks Alice!

Gooooooood Morning Paris!

Good Morning everyone! or maybe I should say Good night, since back in the states it's currenly 3:55am. Today I am off to see a bunch of things in the heart of Paris. I am using one of the walks in my Rick Steves' guide book called "Historic Paris" in which I will get to see Notre Dame, Saint Chapelle and other wonders of Paris. Including a stop at Shakespear and Co. A lovely bookstrore, I am told, just on the other side of the Seine from Notre Dame. I am very much looking forward to the sightseeing I am doing today! Last night a small storm rolled through Paris although as far as I can tell there was no rain.

I am, of course, getting a late start this morning and can't wait to stop in for my cafe and pain au chocolate this morning! I am sure I will have tons of adventures to tell you guys about when I return this late this evening!

Au revoir

What'd that Guy Say?

It tuned out to be a beautiful day. Warm with a light breeze in the air. I made my way to the metro and stopped once again at the Patisserie just around the corner. After the obligitory Bonjour I introduced myself to the shop keeper Marlena. She is a skinny (suprising?) tall woman in her early 40's, who makes all of her pastries from scratch (I hope thats what she said). The line outside her shop on both days has been long, and she seeems to enjoy talking to each and everyone of her patrons as she serves them warm bread and other chocolatly delights. After leaving her shop, you can't help but feel a warm glow, as though you have been loved on for a few minutes by an long lost Aunt. Once again I am taking to the metro. And again I can't help but marvel at the differences between Paris and NY. I head for Montmartre. When I exit the metro station  

I was immediatly aware of all the people, it's quite a departure from the neighborhood I am staying in, where I pass about 3 people on the way to the metro. I headed up a crowded street, on both sides there were numerous tourist shops and little places filled with knickknacks. All of which were stuffed to the gills with people, purchasing their must have souviners, I quickly moved past. When I reached the top of the hill I saw the Funicular that I had been planning on taking, but quickly realizing that the basilica was only a hop-skip-and a jump away from where I was, I decided to climb up myself. I climbed and climbed and climbed some more. It was exhausting and I now understand why French woman are so skinny, you have to climb stairs to get everywhere.

All around the area there are street sellers, with everything from handbags (knock offs. I checked) to ash trays, to personally made friendship bracelets (this is ingenious, a man approaches someone and askes to see their wrist, a unsuspecting tourist obliges, the man then begins to string together different colored strings in the form of a bracelet. Once finished he askes "isn't that pretty" to which the tourist replys "oh yes" the man then demands payment for making the bracelet. With no way to easily remove it they must pay.They never even seen it coming.) I am approached numerous times, but coming from NY I know just what they want so I steer clear and use my angry eyes to convey that they should not approach me any closer. The climb to the top is exhausting, but well worth it. The Sacre-Coeur Basillica is beautiful and offers a sweeping view of the city below.

I sit on the stairs in front of the church, to catch my breath (I use the excuse that I want to admire the view, but we all know it was really because I simply could not walk one single more step. After 5 minutes or so I joined the masses entering the Basilica. The view inside was almost better than the outside.



I was able to snap this picture before I was accosted by the guard and told no pictures allowed. He stood watch over me to make sure I put my camera in my bag and then followed 3 steps behind to make sure I didnt break any other rules. Outside the sun was shinning brightly and inside the stained glass windows allowed the light in to bath the alter in sunshine, it was a stunning sight. After leaving I walked around Montmartre for a bit and then sat in a Cafe to enjoy some lunch. Since it was only 2:00 I decided to catch the subway over to the Rue Cler. Once there I found a very charming and quiet street filled with shops and resturants. Most were closed, Parisian shopkeeper are notoriously lazy and very rarley open on Mondays. But the ones that were open were fun to look around in and I spent the better part of an hour popping in and out of them. I continued walking around the neighborhood and before long I felt a tug in my heart and an emotional longing begin. I wanted to see the Eiffel Tower again. Just as I rounded a corner, there she was in all her brown and metal glory. I procceded to the resting spot I had found yesterday, and after purchasing an Ice Cream (lemon), I sat and enjoyed people watching for an hour or so (I also had another Crepe, chocolate and Banana, I think I could seriously live off those things). I started back towards Trocadero. On my way to the metro I noticed a sign for the Arcitecture museum. I decided to pop in since it was covered by my museum pass (which I purchased before I left the US. Well worth the money) It had mostly modern arcitecture but also alot of Roman arcitecture that was simply breathtaking.

It's simply amazing to think that people used their own hands, and a God given talent to create these works of art. The best part of this museum I must say, was that through each window I could catch a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower (am I obsessed, YES, but that's okay with me).While I was there I noticed a security guard that was quietly creeping up towards me. He introduced himself (in broken english, he said he had heard me when I asked for a map so knew I spoke english LOL) and asked me where I was from, he was very interested in the fact that it was my first time in Paris and that I was there alone. Here is something that I knew before coming to Paris, French men love to flirt with the ladies. I was however, not prepared for just how true that statement is. Everywhere I went men flirted with me, old men, young men, even boys (when I left the grocery store on Saturday a group of three boys were kicking around a soccer ball, one of them kicked it to me as I passed with a quick lift of his brow and the smile I am growing accustomed to seeing on almost every mans face here in Paris, I laughed and kicked it back). At the Basilica this morning a man had followed me around for about 5 minutes asking if he could paint me (I know, makes you laugh out loud doesn't it) I like to think it was due to my charming good looks, but more than likely it was another tourist trap. Thankfully in front of me waiting to enter the Church was a group of Germans, I quickly snuck into the middle of their group and was able to get away. Back to the museum, this guy offered to show me around Paris and asked me for my number, when I said I didn't have a phone with me here he immediatly suggested Facebook. I laughed right out loud when he said that, how funny is it that I am on a completly different continent and people want to "Friend" on Facebook. Pascal (the name alone makes me smile, in a that's kinda funny way). After leaving the Museum I made my way back to my apartment where I hoped to get some dinner. I have to admit that eating dinner out alone is still intmidating to me, so I stopped in some local shops and bought some things I could eat on my balcony. But tommorrow I am staying in the touristy areas later into the night so I have high hopes for finding a place I am more comfortable. Right now I am sitting out on my Balcony with a Bagget, some fresh provolone cheese, some salami and a glass of red wine. There is a slight breeze in the air as the sky gets darker and in the distance I can see some lightening. The apartments around me are slowly turning their lights on and the smell of dinner time is in the air. I don't think my life could get much better.

*I take that back, if that darn building weren't in my way, it could be much better!

I Can't Believe....

I awoke this morning to the sound of a thousand children running through the courtyard. Okay, maybe that's an exaggeration, in reality it was only three but their voice reverberated off the surrounding bulidings making it sound as if there were actually 1,000 children running around with a soccer ball. I steped out onto my balcony to investigate and once again marveled at my luck. This is mine, all mine for the next 7 days. I can't believe it! I watched them playing and thought about how similar kids from different country's are, give them a ball and they will happily try to play keep away from the youngest of the group. It made me miss the three munchkins I have waiting at home for me. Needless to say I am getting a late start today. Last night I couldnt seem to tear myself away from the night landscape or the book I was reading. A wonderful memoir from Karen Wheeler titled Tout Sweet. It was lovely. It's a bit chilly here this morning but,I am off today to Montmartre to ride the funicular to the highest point in Paris, where I am told unparralled beauty awaits me. I'll be the judege of that Rick Steves'.

One Cafe creme, a pain au Chocolate and a metro ride later....

After a relaxing morning I was ready for my first full day in Paris and felt prepared to take on any and all that this city had to offer. I had reservations (the better to skip the long lines of tourists that show up, Man am I glad I did this!!) for the Eiffel Tower at 11:30 and I wanted to make sure I got there in plenty of time. Armed with my Rick Steve's Paris guide book and my Camera I made my way to the Metro Station, which is about a five minute walk from my apartment. I stopped by a little Patisserie that I had found yesterday and confidentaly called out with a " Bonjour Comment allez-vous?"after which I was treated with a warm smile and a reply, what she said I have no idea, but at least I know that all those mornings I woke Kat, James, and William up and asked them the same question wasnt a waste. I purchased a Cafe Creme (espresso with milk) and a Pain au Chocolate (a Crossant with chocolate in the middle) I was feeling good! there was a pep in my step as I decended the stairs to the Metro. As I emerged into the underground the first things I thought was, who ever is in charge of NYC's metro system seriously needs to take a lesson from the french. The area was clean, the ticket machines where easy to understand and didnt make any loud strange noises, and the tickets were compact and easy to use (not a total waste of paper). Each track is armed with a map as well as a screen that tells you where the train is going and how long of a wait it is for the next 2 trains, very convient. After a quick train change I was headed for Trocadero. I emerged into the bright sunshine, quickly covering my eyes with sunglasses, rounded the corner and promptly took them off again. I instantly fell in love.......

I admit it, I cried. It was the most aww inspiring sights I have ever seen. Movies, books, pictures do not this things justice. It is in a word spectacular.

It's a lot smaller than I thought it would be,  Just kidding!

I inched my way closer bumping into people, trees, and running over small children in the process since I couldn't tear my eyes away from her. It's simply amazing that this was built during a time when they didnt have the modern building supplies and tools that we do now, and yet it's still standing. Once I got closer it was even more remarkable.

I sat on a bench and waited for my reservation time to come. The woman next to me somehow must have known I was American ( more than likely it was my awed look and huge bag that gave me away) because she started talking to me, turns out she was from Australia, Queensland in fact, and was on a World ticket. She has been all over in the past 15 days and has seen and experienced alot. We had the same reservation time so we rode to the summit together and had a wonderful chat along the way. She is headed for NYC next and I gave her all kinds of tips and pointers for navigating the big apple and she told me all kinds of things she has learned about Paris since she has been here. It was a lovely start to the morning. Once we reached the top the view was breathtaking....

The views were great ,but honestly the best part about it was the tower itself. I could sit and stare at it all day, which in fact is how I ended up spending most of my day, stumbling around giddy with excitment. I just couldn't seem to tear myself away.



The view from the second floor





Enjoying a crepe!



And I just so happened to bring a friend along with me.....

For those of you not in the know, last summer my mom and I started taking pictures of Mushroom Pooh everywhere we went on our last trip, after William, without me knowing it, stashed him in my suitcase. And now he goes along for the ride where ever I go.

I did also make it to the National Marine Museum, located in Trocadero . It was an extremly interesting look into the history of the French battle ship and shipping enterprise. After which I was ready to go home. I am still feeling jet lagged and hoped for a early dinner and an early bedtime. Tommorrow I plan to do a walk around the Montmartre neighborhood and head over to Rue Cler. 

 * After getting out a map and some fancy Google map exploration I discoved that the only thing standing in my way of an unobsecured view of the Eiffel Tower from my balcony, is that building right there....... I wonder how long it takes to have a building demolished in France?